Mile Zero, Moose, and One Million (Give or Take) Bison

The following morning began much like the one before.

More Rhino tweaking.

A stop at Canadian Tire somehow resulted in... even more Rhino tweaking.

I have to say, though, I think we've finally cracked the car seat. After a few adjustments it's now dramatically more comfortable, and I'm feeling much happier about the long kilometres still ahead.

Progress!

Brunch happened at a rest area while we cooked dinner at the same time — a very efficient little roadside kitchen. We also met some lovely curious travellers who wanted a tour of the Rhino.

It's funny how often people stop to ask about our tiny camping setup. We always enjoy swapping travel stories. There is something about a little car with a bed in it that seems to invite conversations.

One of the biggest surprises of the day was reconnecting with my jewellery friend Alisa in Prince George. It's amazing how road trips create opportunities to see people you haven't crossed paths with in years.

And then...

We reached the middle of British Columbia.

Somehow that felt like a milestone.

After a second lunch (because apparently that's who we are now), Cotty was eager to keep rolling north.

We made a quick detour to a quarry swimming hole that had been recommended to us.

Beautiful?

Absolutely.

Swimmable?

Not unless you've got considerably more courage than I do.

The water was freezing.

One wildlife highlight nearly became a photography triumph when we spotted a magnificent moose sporting enormous fuzzy velvet antlers.

Sadly, he disappeared before either of us was quick enough with the camera.

Sometimes you just have to enjoy the moment and accept that not every memory gets a photograph.

The drive toward Chetwynd was otherwise wonderfully peaceful, with mountain views unfolding around every bend.

More importantly, it brought us to cousins Lance and Edna, where we also met three delightfully shy grandkids — all with names starting with K — who somewhat warmed up to us.

Very slightly.

We made it to Dawson Creek to see cousin Patty-Ann and Jody, and had a lovely visit before calling it a good day (and a good night).

Every stop seems to remind us why this Cousin Quest was such a good idea.

The following morning we caught up on work, internet life, and all those little things that somehow still need doing even when you're wandering around in a car.

Then it was time for another milestone.

Mile 0 of the Alaska Highway.

There is something wonderfully satisfying about standing at the beginning of a road that has carried so many people north into the wilderness.

Of course, we couldn't just admire it.

We had to drive it.

After a final food and car preparation stop in Fort St. John, we said goodbye to reliable cell service and headed north into a much quieter world.

And wow.

The Alaska Highway did not disappoint.

Almost immediately, the landscape started delivering.

Bison.

Bears.

Elk.

Moose.

Deer.

and cool Mountains.

So much wildlife that we eventually stopped trying to predict what might appear around the next corner.

The road itself became the entertainment.

We found a beautiful spot beside a river to park for the night. It was wonderfully quiet and peaceful — the kind of place where you can hear the water moving and remember why you like travelling this way.

Cotty, however, had his sights set on one particular goal.

Liard River Hot Springs.

And preferably early.

Very early.

So we got up, packed up, and made it to the springs just after they opened at 7am.

Perfect timing.

We wandered along the boardwalk and were rewarded with another moose sighting before enjoying a long soak in the springs.

The water was beautiful and clear, with tiny pebbles on the bottom that were surprisingly comfortable underfoot. The surface water could be wonderfully hot in places, but underneath was cooler — just right for scooping up and cooling yourself down when needed.

After our soak, we enjoyed our breakfast in the day-use area.

A hot spring, breakfast in the car, and nowhere we absolutely had to be.

Not a bad way to start the day.

And then came even more bison.

One particularly cooperative fellow allowed us to pull right alongside him. Next sighting was a bear who didn’t care and Cotty took the opportunity for a very funny selfie.

Shortly afterwards we encountered something we had never experienced before...

A bison traffic jam.

A large group had decided that the road was a perfectly acceptable place to hang out, until one big rig came along and gave a very enthusiastic horn blast.

The bison eventually moved along. We were and a bridge and it was shockingly bouncy as they departed.

Eventually.

We continued north, eventually reaching the Yukon border where we found ourselves facing a very important question:

What next?

The funny thing about travelling this way is that sometimes having too many options is almost harder than having none.

There were so many possible directions.

So many places still calling.

At one point, we even considered heading all the way to Inuvik.

But eventually we decided that might be just a little too bonkers...

Even for us.

And so, as always, the plan remains slightly uncertain.

The road will decide.

Stay tuned.